La Morenita, Emperatriz de las Américas

Jonna — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 23:23:09 +0000

I am an atheist, but I can appreciate the solace of religion and I have great respect for that and for faith that I see in others. My friend Croft had a great quote on his blog the other day – there are few facts involved in religion. I’ve very little respect for the Calvinist doctrines of my youth, a lot of depressing, vindictive and judgmental people trying to convince themselves that their lack of joy will benefit them later. If you are going to have a religion, I think it should do what its intended to do and give you joy and solace and the ability to enjoy the life you have through all of its hard times. Plus, it should have beauty in its buildings, nice smells and music and lighting.

Since I don’t think any religion is more than illusion, I’m able to judge them on their aesthetic qualities and whether they seem to provide something of value for their believers. I don’t see value in a feeling of superiority which appears to be the driving force of Islam and evangelical/Protestant Christian religions. I’m not interested in religions that have no pomp, no costumes, no incense and candles and towering beautiful buildings. I want some Barnum and Bailey if I am going to suspend rationality. Thus, my fascination with Catholicism and the seeming dichotomy of a non-believer getting great joy from its rituals and beliefs.

The Virgen de Guadalupe, La Morenita, La Virgencita, La Reina de México, the most impressive bit of marketing in the last 600 years, is one of my favorites. I often refer to the Catholic Church as the Microsoft of religion, they have long followed the dictum from Redmond to Embrace, Extend and Extinguish. I wonder if Bill Gates is Catholic?

The brown skinned, loving, compassionate, mother of all Mexico is without doubt the most powerful image of the country and she has the love and belief of almost everyone in the country, protestant and Catholic and yes, even the atheists. What is there not to love about her kind and loving gaze, her words of solace, her strength and compassion, the joyful fervor of her devotees?

Her words are kind and comforting:

¿No estoy aquí yo que soy tu Madre? ¿No estás bajo mi sombra y resguardo? ¿No soy yo la fuente de tu alegría? ¿No estás en el hueco de mi manto, en el cruce de mis brazos?

Every year I try to attend the celebrations. All weekend rockets and fireworks have been going off at all hours. From all over southern Mexico people have walked, run, ridden bicycles, horses or in the back of trucks, carrying torches that symbolize their devotion, to be here at the church dedicated to her on her day. Most arrive on the eve of the 12th of December and that is when we usually go to the church. Every year I try and get pictures that will convey the incredible joy and love and devotion as well as the excitement. These are the best I could get this year, I think a couple of them are good but perhaps I will do better next year.

Also every year, I try and get a good picture of my favorite priest. He has a smile that lights up his face. He is always in front of the church welcoming the antorchistas. He speaks to every group and I was pleased to realize this year that my Spanish has improved enough that I could understand him as he spoke to one group. I don’t remember his words but he talked of San Martín de Porres and of love for the land, for all animals and the love of God. It’s the smile though, some day I’ll get a good picture of his smile.

Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe

Jonna — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 07:06:33 +0000

statue of the Virgencita arrives on a truck

It is a joyful time to be in México, that is true all over the country. This last week of celebrations for the Virgen de Guadalupe culminated yesterday. The joy and the love that surrounds every manifestation of her seems to permeate the air. Here in Yucatan, the season is accompanied by the return of the best weather in the world. Our days are in the 90′sF and the nights in the 70′sF.

Theresa and I went to the church dedicated to her, San Cristóbal, on Friday. This is the 2nd year I’ve gone and I think it will be something I try and do every year. I love the chants and the smiles and the laughter and the devotion, the air is electric.

The picture at the left is a statue of the Virgen being taken out of the back of a truck to be carried into the church. Statues of her came from near and far, large like this one and small and carried on the backs of runners and bicyclists. They run and bike from all over the peninsula, they carry torches and wear team shirts with the name of their town.

They sing, they chant her name, they have cheers like for a sports team – give me an M, give me an A… Many of the women dress in the traditional huipil and there are babies in the blue mantle of Guadalupe and boys dressed as Juan Diego.

In the plaza of the church various groups sell food and desserts. There were some marvelous choices, we wandered around and looked at everything before deciding. Theresa had pozole and it was an enormous bowl with all the traditional accompaniments. I had sopes and a tamal from one group of nuns and then another tamal from another group. Then we both had pots of crema de coco with cinammon. It was delicious.

We had gotten there before it was really crowded so we got a table near the side entrance to the church. We could watch the steady stream of people entering the church and hear the singing from the mass. As it got more crowded, we walked out in front and watched the groups arriving with torches and bands and boy scouts holding ropes to keep them together.
I especially enjoyed the priest at the front door of the church. His smile was infectious and he was wearing a beautiful hand painted robe. He blessed everyone who entered, blessed the pictures and statues carried in and he seemed so joyous and happy. I tried several times to get a picture of his smile but I somehow missed it.

Here is a small slideshow of pictures, the link to the album is here.

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La Morenita, Emperatriz de las Américas

Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe