Fifty years ago, before there were roads along the Quintana Roo coast, a wealthy Mexican diver bought miles of coastline from a coconut plantation and founded a small dive resort on the pristine bay. He first found this string of bays lined with drooping coconut palms and sugar white sand because of the wreck of a Spanish galleon, El Matancero, which had sunk on the reefs offshore.
Don Pablo Bush Romero is famous not just for founding Akumal but as the founder of CEDAM (Club de Exploraciones y Deportes Acuáticos de México) a club that led expeditions to the bottom of the cenotes of Chichen Itza, the wrecks off the Caribbean coast of Mexico and even the final grave of Jean Lafitte. The club was based on the idea that any could join but no one could profit, everything discovered belonged to the people of México. From all accounts he was a Hemingway kind of man, big game hunter, raconteur, adventurer, a man’s man – and no doubt a delight to women as well.
Last weekend we went over to Akumal for the big 50th anniversary celebration. Don Pablo’s daughters still own a good portion of Akumal and it is through their and their father’s generosity that Akumal is the home of the world renowned ecological center, CEA (Centro Ecológico Akumal.)
The town has always been centered around diving, it is how Mimi and I found it some 15 years ago. The reefs off the coast are beautiful and full of life, the cenotes clustered along that stretch of coast offer incredible fresh water dives and it is a a day trip to the deep water walls of Cozumel. It’s also a great place to have a good time and a good meal in an incredible Caribbean setting.
After our aborted attempt to drive over on Thursday night, we had a clear sunny drive on Friday. I even made it in time for my noon dentist appointment. Which was good because my dentist is an avid diver and he was off at 1pm for the reefs of Akumal. Two of our dentists competed in the underwater treasure hunt on Saturday, sadly neither of them won but they had a good time.
We went that evening to CEA to watch a movie produced by Myrna Bush about the founding of Akumal and its development.
It was fascinating and the place was jammed. People overflowed out both sides to the patio and the beach, it only started clearing out when the inevitable politicians got the mic.
I got to see a lot of old friends from when we first started coming to Akumal in 1994. They called up everyone from the 1980′s and 1990′s for a picture, can you spot Mimi and I?
Then there was music and dancing at the bandstand across the way. We watched for a bit and then joined a lot of friends for dinner at Cueva de Pescador nearby, we also had a few of their famous margaritas.
Saturday we all went snorkeling in Yal Ku lagoon, a fantastic inlet where fresh water from the underground rivers flows into the ocean. It’s a nursery for dozens of types of reef fish, and the best part is that it is only a couple blocks from our condo.
We also did some snorkeling in Half Moon Bay in front of our condo. For me, the most exciting part was I got Cuba to swim! Our rescued beach dogs will have nothing at all to do with the water but I kept hoping that Cuba would like it. I took her down alone and with Paula’s help we encouraged her and before long she was bounding into the water and swimming to me. What a champ!
That night we went to the party at Lol Ha, the restaurant/bar/resort owned by the other Bush sister, Laura. An open bar, a great buffet, tons of old friends … it was a fantastic evening on the beach of Akumal bay. I didn’t take my camera along, so no pictures which is probably good.
On Sunday, MImi was playing in the volleyball tournament with the Turtle Bay Cafe team and we all trooped to the beach to cheer her on. It was a gorgeous day, the bay and the beach were jammed with people enjoying the celebration. There was a fishing tournament which was won by Wendell Day and a huge Marlin. There were beer booths and food booths and families picnicking and kids playing. It was wonderful. Down at the far end of the beach, the volleyball was hot and action packed. I watched a good deal of it from about 3′ of water floating in the Caribbean. Perfect front row view and cool, I had to get out to take pictures, that was the only rub.
Then we had to make a decision. We had planned to return to Mérida that night but Sunday night was another big party at our local beach bar, La Buena Vida. It’s owned by a good friend and it’s our favorite spot so we decided to stay another night. A full day of sun and water and then another night of friends and drinking did us in. I think those Brits have a picture of Stephen and I dancing that night, I may have to kill them.
It was exhausting and fabulous and the most fun I’ve had in a long time. I’ve put together another slide show but there is also a link to the gallery at Picassa so if you have a slow connection that will work better.
Here’s a link to the album if the slideshow does not load.



Sounds as if the journy over was time well-invested.
Slideshow was Great!! What a fun happening!!!
Jonna The picture of you and Cuba is so cool! How did you coax her into the water? Akumal looks so beautiful, never been, after seeing pictures and hearing stories from you about the area, sounds like a great place. The beach and ocean look gorgeous there. Thanks for sharing Sherry
Very cool, loove the slide show!! I need to play me some beach volleyball!
Yes, we in fact are in possession of several more than incriminating photos of two less than stable people “dancing” ……for an exchange of cash in small bills, they can be deleted prior to publishing………..blackmail is such an awful ugly word eh ????!!!
Hah! 2 can play this game! I too have photos that should never see the lights of the internets. Shall we deal?
Sherry, I didn’t have to coax Cuba too much. I held her collar and walked in a bit with her while heaping praise on her. I let go and of course she ran out but when I called her she came back. Lots and lots of over the top praise and attention and within an hour she was swimming out on her own. In fact, I swam off to snorkle a little and when I came up and looked back she had swam out quite a ways after me and was just turning around. After that, I made sure one of us was on the beach with her so she didn’t get herself in trouble. She did well though, she got stronger at swimming and braver. She does still expect that when she gets to you she will be held. That could become a problem at some point. She’s very trusting though, she swims into your arms and then just lays there and lets you float her around. When Whitney and Jan were here with their 2 dobermans I realized that they can be good swimmers and great water dogs. I think our other 2 dogs discouraged her by their fear and distaste for even getting their feet wet. BTW, those 2 were on the deck watching her get all this praise and attention. I might get them in yet, jealousy is a powerful tool
Hey, Jonna,
A few years ago I tried to get in touch with the Bush children because I was writing about their father. As I recall I wrote them in Ingles and Espanol, but never got a reply. Do they live in Akumal? Perhaps I can head down there my next trip and try to corner them in the grocery store. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
– Josh
Jonna – Thanks for the reply. Seems like most dogs won’t swim in saltwater…
Cuba is your special baby. Sweet ..how she wants you to hold her..you are right though, in deeper water that could be an interesting challenge. And your other 2 babies may be figuring it out with the praise and attention. Next time they may surprise you with a swan dive! Have a great trip up North. Sherry
Thanks Sherry.
Josh, both of the Bush women are completely bilingual so that wasn’t the problem. They are both very upper class Mexican women however, you are not likely to run into them in their grocery store. You might see them out at events such as this weekend, art openings, parties, things like that. They live part time in Akumal and part time in the US. If you are in Akumal, ask at the office if you can make an appointment to talk to Laura or Myrna, that would be your best bet.
Hola. I was disappointed to miss this bash, but I besides you and Mimi, I only recognized Chepo….It looks like the early 1980s gang is no longer around! Thanks for a great report.
Gracias!
– J.